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Monthly Archives: July 2013
在伊朗拍片
在伊朗,无论是在大街,还是小巷,或高速公路上,总有很多眼睛盯着你,能感受到霍梅尼和哈梅内伊充满威力的眼睛透过大大小小的posters注视你的一举一动。更令人不安的是便衣警察难以察觉但无所不在的眼睛。如果挂着专业单反相机走在德黑兰街头,就更容易被盯上。德黑兰几个本地摄影师告诉我,他们不做街头摄影,因为怕被当做间谍抓起来。 伊朗大选前一周,在德黑兰一地铁站,我透过玻璃窗拍地铁,刚摁快门,就看到离我50米远的一个警察举手发出警告。不到一分钟的时间,另一个警察过来命令我删去照片。一个小时后,我拍德黑兰一个小型集会时,一个便衣警察要抢我的相机,幸亏有当地翻译帮忙,才“幸免于难”。翻译是我的朋友,叫阿巴斯。他事后告诉我,他当时听见我的心砰砰跳。看来我那时害怕到了极点了。 大选期间,伊朗当局担心再出2009年“绿色运动”那样的大型抗议示威活动,所以看管极严。 大选当天,德黑兰到处可见警车和警察,包括武警、便衣和民兵。但是,我也看到热爱picnic的伊朗人在一排警察后面的草地上摆上茶和点心,悠然享受下班后的悠闲时光。他们大概习惯了当局的管制,对身边一排持枪棍的警察,见怪不怪了。 不过,一些参加过2009年“绿色运动”的年轻人,对四年前的遭遇仍心有余悸,尽量避免参加大型的街头聚会。我在色拉子和德黑兰遇到的两个大学生告诉我,他们有同学、朋友在2009年被抓,被打,有人至今还在狱中,也有人流亡国外。大四学生Farhang约我在德黑兰北部一闹市见面时,大选结果刚揭晓,人们涌上街头庆祝鲁哈尼的胜利。当街上人头越来越多,把几条街围个水泄不通,我兴奋地开始拍片,Farhang则决定回家去,并警告我要小心。街头的景象勾起了他对2009年的血腥记忆。 有了一周前的经历。我非常小心。我和遇到的一个女设计师聊天(其实是采访)时,被一个便衣警察盯上,他用鹰隼般的眼睛时不时朝我们这边看,一边敲手机短信。(在伊朗,如果你看到一个人神情极其严肃,眼光犀利而警惕,时不时东张西望,一边敲击手机短信,他很可能是便衣警察或秘密警察。)女设计师碰了碰我的胳膊,轻声说:“我们被盯上了。”我很“识趣”地装着悠闲的样子迈步走开十来米,然后,也不和设计师打招呼,赶紧混进人堆里,免得给无辜的她带来危险。真有点像走进好莱坞电影的场景了。 当然,在伊朗的政治气氛虽紧张,但我们常常的经历都是有惊无险。伊朗人的生活也并非很多人想象的那样处于水深火热之中。他们的物质生活水平,平均起来,比咱们中国人要好,中下阶层的人都有车,居住环境敞亮舒适,食品安全,人心也不浮躁,没有诚信危机。这两年因美国对伊朗的经济制裁有所收紧,他们的生活收到了影响,通货膨胀很高,实际收入大大减少了。若非美国的经济制裁,伊朗之富裕,可匹敌欧美呢。
Posted in p-journal
Tagged big brother, chinese photographer, election, iran, watching, xiaomei chen, 中国摄影师, 伊朗, 大选, 女摄影师, 政治
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