Hangzhou Again 又到杭州

 

(注:中文在英文下面)

I went to Hangzhou again last weekend and stayed there for four days. April and May are Hangzhou’s most beautiful time of the year. It was just wonderful to view the West Lake through raindrops. It was as beautiful to sip tea at a tea house in the mountains where Lingyin temple sits. I sipped tea at a table by a window looking towards a garden with a pond full of fish. There was nothing better than sitting there, doing nothing, not even thinking.

Inside the Lingyin Temple, Bhuddists burned incenses, asking for Bhudda’s blessings. I had no desire to spend any money on blessings. If Bhudda refused to bless me because I didn’t burn incense, he was not a real Bhudda. I happened to have read an article titled “Bhudda Does Not Bless” by Feng Zikai. I couldn’t agree more with Mr. Feng.

When I saw pants and slippers at a corner of the courtyard inside a temple, I couldn’t help but smile. It was such a juxtaposition! Maybe Bhuddas are humans, too, aren’t they?

近来和杭州有缘。四月底去那儿拍片,呆了五天。五月初则因公私参半的事情又去了一趟,呆了四天。四、五月正是杭州最美的时候,尤其是下雨的时候。透过车窗的雨滴看西湖,风景别样好。

雨中,游人的兴致都很高。黄龙洞公园里,人们撑着伞等着看大戏。河坊街和南宋御街更热闹。

最后那天很闲。早上送走了师长和同学,就等夜晚的航班。索性去灵隐寺呆了一天。走走停停歇歇,中午走到在半山的茶馆,占据了角落窗边的一张桌子,喝茶、吃点心,无所事事地过了三、四个小时,什么也不做,什么也不想。偶尔打个盹儿,醒来听见旁桌茶客的高谈阔论。一个中年男人对一个中年女人炫耀他的旅游经历,努力地传递“我见多识广又与众不同”的信息,大概是为博取女人的注意力。另一张桌子坐着三个男孩,正值血气方刚的年龄。他们的桌子摆了一套功夫茶具、几本严肃的书、一个i-pad。背对我的男孩特别活跃,热烈地谈论中国的社会现状。那些话,听起来都合乎情理,但我听着它们,却想到了辛弃疾的《丑奴儿·书博山道中壁》

少年不识愁滋味,

爱上层楼。

爱上层楼,

为赋新词强说愁。

而今识尽愁滋味,

欲说还休。

欲说还休,

却道天凉好个秋!

再想,谁人不曾有过美好的少年时代?

灵隐寺的香客很多。我看着求佛心切的人们,在心里把玩:此人看来是富裕人士,估计是求佛让他永远发财的吧?那个女人或许求一个如意丈夫?那个老人求儿女平安?…….

我自己没有烧香拜佛的欲望。如果上天真有佛,佛因为我不烧香而怪罪我,那么,我不需要这样佛。恰好今晨读丰子恺的文章《佛无灵》。很认同他的观点。

在寺院的一角,看到晾在门边的内裤和一双拖鞋。可见,不管佛家人怎么神圣,他们也还得食人间烟火的嘛。

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