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Tag Archives: 伊朗
在伊朗拍片
在伊朗,无论是在大街,还是小巷,或高速公路上,总有很多眼睛盯着你,能感受到霍梅尼和哈梅内伊充满威力的眼睛透过大大小小的posters注视你的一举一动。更令人不安的是便衣警察难以察觉但无所不在的眼睛。如果挂着专业单反相机走在德黑兰街头,就更容易被盯上。德黑兰几个本地摄影师告诉我,他们不做街头摄影,因为怕被当做间谍抓起来。 伊朗大选前一周,在德黑兰一地铁站,我透过玻璃窗拍地铁,刚摁快门,就看到离我50米远的一个警察举手发出警告。不到一分钟的时间,另一个警察过来命令我删去照片。一个小时后,我拍德黑兰一个小型集会时,一个便衣警察要抢我的相机,幸亏有当地翻译帮忙,才“幸免于难”。翻译是我的朋友,叫阿巴斯。他事后告诉我,他当时听见我的心砰砰跳。看来我那时害怕到了极点了。 大选期间,伊朗当局担心再出2009年“绿色运动”那样的大型抗议示威活动,所以看管极严。 大选当天,德黑兰到处可见警车和警察,包括武警、便衣和民兵。但是,我也看到热爱picnic的伊朗人在一排警察后面的草地上摆上茶和点心,悠然享受下班后的悠闲时光。他们大概习惯了当局的管制,对身边一排持枪棍的警察,见怪不怪了。 不过,一些参加过2009年“绿色运动”的年轻人,对四年前的遭遇仍心有余悸,尽量避免参加大型的街头聚会。我在色拉子和德黑兰遇到的两个大学生告诉我,他们有同学、朋友在2009年被抓,被打,有人至今还在狱中,也有人流亡国外。大四学生Farhang约我在德黑兰北部一闹市见面时,大选结果刚揭晓,人们涌上街头庆祝鲁哈尼的胜利。当街上人头越来越多,把几条街围个水泄不通,我兴奋地开始拍片,Farhang则决定回家去,并警告我要小心。街头的景象勾起了他对2009年的血腥记忆。 有了一周前的经历。我非常小心。我和遇到的一个女设计师聊天(其实是采访)时,被一个便衣警察盯上,他用鹰隼般的眼睛时不时朝我们这边看,一边敲手机短信。(在伊朗,如果你看到一个人神情极其严肃,眼光犀利而警惕,时不时东张西望,一边敲击手机短信,他很可能是便衣警察或秘密警察。)女设计师碰了碰我的胳膊,轻声说:“我们被盯上了。”我很“识趣”地装着悠闲的样子迈步走开十来米,然后,也不和设计师打招呼,赶紧混进人堆里,免得给无辜的她带来危险。真有点像走进好莱坞电影的场景了。 当然,在伊朗的政治气氛虽紧张,但我们常常的经历都是有惊无险。伊朗人的生活也并非很多人想象的那样处于水深火热之中。他们的物质生活水平,平均起来,比咱们中国人要好,中下阶层的人都有车,居住环境敞亮舒适,食品安全,人心也不浮躁,没有诚信危机。这两年因美国对伊朗的经济制裁有所收紧,他们的生活收到了影响,通货膨胀很高,实际收入大大减少了。若非美国的经济制裁,伊朗之富裕,可匹敌欧美呢。
Posted in p-journal
Tagged big brother, chinese photographer, election, iran, watching, xiaomei chen, 中国摄影师, 伊朗, 大选, 女摄影师, 政治
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Iran, Iran 伊朗,伊朗
Link to the text: http://modernweekly.com/content.aspx?artID=38145 Two weeks, two Chinese journalists, four spreads, eight pages, four articles and tons of photos. So my deepest Sepas to Maziar, Abbas, Zahra, Mina, Mohammad, and many others for their warm help. Wish I could … Continue reading
Posted in p-journal
Tagged chinese photographer and writer, iran, iran election, tehran, xiaomei chen, 中国摄影师, 伊朗, 伊朗大选, 德黑兰, 陈小枚
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